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Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

U.S. Ranch-style livings brings the big country to the back of your home!

The Finn Life Helppo Log Cabin's horizons are so broad, you may think you're in Montana. Here, the possibilities are truly endless. There's plenty of room for storage and also room for play - the Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin also gives you all the time in the world to enjoy the views. If you want, you can still keep yourself busy. Walk around the veranda and see the world from a different angle.

Why buy the Finnforest Helppo?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 34mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Floor and roof T&G
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Roof colour is Green and shingles are square

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.73m
External: 5.70m

Depth:
Internal: 2.83m
External: 4.50m

Ridge Height
External: 29.70m

Area:
Internal: 10.57m²
External: 25.65m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected stockists.

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How to build your very own Finnlife Helppo Log Cabin

Those slow summer evenings may be enticing, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it goes together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

It is possible to present this document to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is important. Care given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should check that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to lay parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s a good idea to running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray cutdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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