Compare Prices for the Finnlife Helsinki

Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Whether you want to use your Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin as a guest room, hobby hideaway, or personal library you'll find the Valo is more than up to the task. Once the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finn Life Helsinki is about going back to basics: you, nature and the things you care for most.

The Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin is the ultimate in log cabin design

Incredibly flexible, spacious and airy. If you have space restrictions then the Helsinki Log Cabin is the answer. The Helsinki is truly a castle in its own right, featuring 5 rooms.

A ladder leads up from the downstairs to an incredibly storage area upstairs. It’s a multiple-use space that will easily adapt to any of your needs; your teenagers may need a club room … your own outdoor office … even a little house in the garden. Such a flexible space can be rearranged should circumstances change.

The Helsinki Log Cabin will solve all your space problems in one go. There’s room for a business that can be run from home, entertain an endless string of guests, or even have a gym.
Why buy the Finnforest Helsinki Log Cabin?

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood

* 45mm wall logs

* Timber joists

* Pre-cut floor & roof boards

* Roof shingles

* Ready made, fully glazed doors

* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens

* All necessary fixtures and fittings

* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

* Outside terrace

* Upstairs space accessed by ladder

* Felt shingle roof.

* Large cabin with 5 internal rooms.

* Incorporates decked terrace area.

* Separate handy loft area for storage.

* French doors and opening windows supplied with double glazed toughened glass.

* Size approx cabin external (H)358, ridge, (W)979, (D)514cm / (H)11ft 9in, (W)32ft, (D)16ft 10in.

* Size internal (H)328, ridge, (W)953, (D)398cm / (H)10ft 9in, (W)31ft 3in, (D)13ft 1in.

* Requires a quality timber treatment after assembly (treatment not included).

* Supplied in kit form containing all the components and instructions required for self assembly.

* Manufactured from Scandinavian whitewood.

* 44mm tongue and groove wall boarding provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year round use.

* Traditional timber tongue and groove ceiling and flooring.

* Wind block system ensures a tight wind-proof seal.

DIMENSIONS
Internal External
Width 9.53m 9.79m
Depth 3.98m 5.15m
Ridge Height - 3.56m
Area 29.97msq 50.39msq

Return to top

Building your Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

The long summer afternoons might be enticing, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

It’s possible to show this document to a handyman then sit back until he delivers the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the initial step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the base of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to build you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each part near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to place parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining sawdust. Dust-free joints make a better fit. Walls are built by placeing wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

Return to top

Finnlife Models