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Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

The Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin is the workshop that lets you spread out as much as you want without getting in anyone elses way.

Perhaps you're a gardener or maybe you like to Do It Yourself. Either way you'll love that free feeling that comes from having your very own place to work - a place where everything is close at hand.

The Hytti has lots of room for tools, DIY equipment, and also comes with a workbench. Also, there isa door that you can shut behind you and let you get on with the things that are really important.

Why buy the Finnforest Hytti?

* Made from Scandinavian White Wood
* Workshop features 19mm thick logs
* A great building for storage

This shed is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers. Shop around for extras and bargains!

DIMENSIONS:
Internal Width: 2.36m (7'8")
External Width: 2.60m (8'8")
Internal Depth: 1.76m (5'9")
External Depth: 2.00m (6'6")
Ridge Height: 2.05m (6'8")
Internal Area: 4.15m² (45 square feet)
External Area: 5.20m² (56 square feet)

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Sumptuous, slow summer days might be coming, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is put together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

It is possible to present this document to a professional builder then sit back until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of your Finn Life Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you begin to erect you should make sure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Your complete Finn Life Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They offer a firm base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the circulation of air underneath the cabin by blocking the open end. To prevent damp rising into your cabin every floor beam should be covered by 2 strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one below. The polythene transit packaging offers a perfectly good damp-proof course when made into thin strips. Instead you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are easy to identify. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finn Life Cabin model; please refer to your specific Building Plans and Parts List.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As every gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have put the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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