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Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finnforest Ikkuna Log Cabin: Just the ticket to working from home.

Some jobs need a bit more room than others. Architects have to go back to the drawing board; graphic designers like to see things on the big screen; film and video-makers want an indoor studio

What do all these people need? The Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Building your Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Sumptuous, lazy summer days might be calling, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it is put together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

It is possible to present this text to a professional builder then relax until he hands over the keys to your completed Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, no matter who finishes the task, the initial step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is crucial. Care given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Place out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Log Cabin is built you can then go back and remove away any additional polythene/DPC membrane visible. Ensure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Log Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Persist with laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Place angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends indicates a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Place the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models