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Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

The Jarvi would be totally perfect for use as a small workshop in your garden, but like all cabins in the Finnlife range, it can be a very flexible building.

The Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin features 28mm thick logs for the walls, a single door, and a window. One of the interesting features is the pair of lockable window shutters. During the day you can shelter from the sun and rain underneath the Jarvi's wide canopy; at night you can secure your possessions behind the shutters.

Finnforest log cabins are built using the highest quality sustainable softwood from Scandinavian forests which are well managed and where industry and wildlife coexist harmoniously. The wall logs are layered alternatelytogether with windproof tongue and groove joints, which results in a building thats weatherproof.

Well illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with with your log cabin making assembly easier and simpler to follow. The doors and windows come fully glazed saving you a lot of work. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is in the right order for assembly, thus negating any time consuming reordering.

Finnforest 'Jarvi' Log Cabin Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Wide canopy across the front

Dimensions
Internal: 2.70m x 2.24m (8ft 10in x 7ft 4in)
External: 2.96m x 2.50m (9ft 9in x 8ft 3in
Ridge Height: 2.25m (7ft 5in)
Internal Area: 6.05m² (65 ft²)
External Area: 7.40m² (79 ft²)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers.

The Finnforest Jarvi provides:

# A comfortable cabin in your garden that will create a home office away from the hustle and bustle, a guest hideaway, somewhere to chill out - even a sauna.

# Superior 28mm tongue and groove timber wall boarding.

# Pre-hung door and one opening window supplied with styrene glazing.

# Window shutters lockable from the inside.

# Felt shingle roof.

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Instructions on construction of a Finn Life Log Cabin

Gorgeous, long summer afternoons may be enticing, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it goes together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to present this document to a professional builder then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your finished Finn Life Log Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the initial step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is essential. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a complete set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If needed, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to retain an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Make Sure that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws through the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Begin laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should tap each level down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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