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Finnlife Joki Log Cabin

Finnforest Joki Log Cabin: The perfect complement to your garden space.

The Finnlife Joki Log Cabin is a no-mess kind of cabin, which is why it will always look like it's in the right place. Wherever it goes - by the pool, near your exclusive tennis courts, overlooking the lush croquet lawn - this log cabin always blends in.

The Joki may come with Nordic style, yet doesn't look ill-fitting anywhere on the British landscape. Here, the living is easy.

Why buy the Finnforest Joki?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 34mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Width:
Internal: 3.83m
External: 4.10m

Depth:
Internal: 3.83m
External: 5.60m

Ridge Height
External: 2.84m

Area:
Internal: 14.68m²
External: 22.96m²

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - see stockists for details.

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How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin yourself

Gorgeous, lounging summer evenings may be calling, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to present this document to a professional builder then sit back until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to assemble your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Care spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to erect you should make sure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each piece close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to place pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Place out the floor beams at orderly intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Log Cabin is finished you can then go back and cut off away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane visible. Check that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Log Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The top end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to take it out later on. When erecting the Finnlife Log Cabin during the hotter months, we advise leaving small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where building during the winter months we would advise knocking the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The ending roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Place it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a cut to trim it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Place ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Place the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have put the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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