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Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kesa lets you fully enjoy those eternal summer evenings. Right here is the place to share a slow leisurely sunset with your nearest and dearest.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured using only the highest quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are consciously managed and where industry and wildlife eke out a harmonious existence. The wall logs are set in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints, allowing for a totally weatherproof building.

The for this log cabin are set out step-by-step and well illustrated. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is packed in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Internal: 4.17m x 3.51m (13ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.46m x 3.80m (14ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")
Internal Area: 14.64m² (158 ft²)
External Area: 16.95m² (182 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")

Please note that the wood will need to be treated after is it assembled

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Building Your Finnlife Log Cabin

Sumptuous, lazy summer days might be beckoning, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry knowledge are needed. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

It is possible to present this text to a handyman then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. However, no matter who does the job, the first stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is essential. Care spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the end outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Note again that if your Finnlife Log Cabin includes internal walls, also Lay the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If needed, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should knock each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards sequentially starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends shows a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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