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Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin

Outdoor fun revolves around the Finnlife Kulma Log Cabin.

Imagine that your garden was a cricket pitch. That would make the Finn Life Kulma Log Cabin your pavilion. The Finnlife Kulma seems custom-designed for serving refreshments and watching sport.

Worry not about rain or the dreaded bad light. The inside is so roomy, the food, drink and banter - sporting and otherwise - can carry on all through the night!

Why buy the Finnforest Kulma Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood harvested from sustainable forests.
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Width:
Internal: 3.82m
External: 4.08m

Depth:
Internal: 2.94m
External: 3.20m

Ridge Height
External: 3.01m

Area:
Internal: 9.90m²
External: 11.56m²

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How to build your own Finnlife Log Cabin

The slow summer afternoons might be beckoning, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it without any help!

You might show this document to a carpenter then relax until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, no matter who finishes the task, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is distinctive. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is essential. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to erect you should check that you have a full set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every piece near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set pieces too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Pull the frame apart again and squeeze PVA glue into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Push the sides together tightly. Make Sure that the frame is alignrd correctly by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess glue from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to stop glue smearing over the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fasten all corners with the screws provided.

Persist with laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Put angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Building up the gable ends reveals a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have put the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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