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Finnlife Lampi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Lampi log cabin is a member of the Finnforest quality range of outdoor buildings.

Great things come in small packages they say, and the Lampi certainly has a lot to offer. Wouldn't you like to get away from it all? Relax with a good book, or just take time away from the hustle and bustle of daily life.Possibly you require an office in your garden.

Perhaps Lampi is the answer.

The Finnforest Lampi is comprised of Scandinavian design, with logs of 28mm in thickness. The compact size of this superb log cabin is simply ideal for those who need everything in their garden

The roof and floor is made up of Tongue and Groove which makes this cabin even more stable and sturdy and gives it superb longevity. This building features two opening windows and glazed door, providing a chic look.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Lampi 2 opening windows
Lampi with underfloor heating 2 opening windows
Door Opening Size (w x h)
Lampi 0cm 0cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Lampi Styrene
Lampi with underfloor heating Styrene
Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Lampi 2.8cm
Lampi with underfloor heating 2.8cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Window Dimensions 0cm x 0cm
Glazing Thickness 0cm

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How to Construct A Finnlife Log Cabin

Lovely, lazy summer afternoons might be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

It is possible to present this text to a professional builder then sit back until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of your Finn Life Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a complete set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every piece place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any remaining sawdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by placeing wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the location of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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