Compare Prices for the Finnlife Mokki

Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

The Finnforest Mokki Log Cabin is a spacious and light shed-cum-summerhouse replete with a pair of doors and nice large window, allowing for an ideal and never-resented extra sitting room; just the place to enjoy afternoon tea.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured employing the best quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry. It's alternate layering of the wall logs allows for a rigid building - a standard of excellence unique to Finnlife Log Cabins.

Clearly illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with your cabin making assembly easier and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, which will save you time.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 3.54m x 2.70m (11ft 7in)
External: 3.80m x 2.96m (12ft 5in x 9ft 8in)
Internal Area: 9.56m² (103 ft²)
External Area: 11.25m² (121 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.51m (8'3")
It isrecommend that a concrete base is used and the cabin walls are approximately 35mm off the ground. The floor has floor joists which are pressure treated.

Return to top

How to build your very own Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

The lazy summer days might be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is put together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry knowledge are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to show this document to a handyman then take it easy until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the first stage is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can erect your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is crucial. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Tick off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each part close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to set parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Place out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is built you can then go back and trim away any extra polythene/DPC membrane showing. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Place one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Place angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of slots for the roof beams. As each slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the uppermost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fix by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

Return to top

Finnlife Models