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Finnlife Peile Log Cabin

The Finnlife Peili Log Cabin is a beautiful cabin which offers a good-sized space inside and enough room for you to create something very special for yourself and your garden.

Like all log cabins in the Finnforest range, the Finn Life Peili is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry.

Use the Well illustrated, step-by-step plans that come supplied with your cabin making assembly of the building simpler and very straightforward.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

DIMENSIONS

Height:9'5" (2.9m)
Width:9'7" (2.96m)
Depth:14'11" (4.34m)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating - see individual retailers for details.

Building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Relaxing, lazy summer evenings may be calling, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this document to a carpenter then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finnlife Log Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every component close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to put components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Note again that if your Finnlife Log Cabin includes internal walls, also Put the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance. Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches decides where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If required, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Temporarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second layer of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a smooth fit, you should knock each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not received an assembly piece then any scrap piece of timber will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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