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Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

There's room to swing a cat in the Finnlife Pori Log Cabin - room enough for a pool cue at full extent - room enough to practice dancing - got kids? invite the whole class round for a birthday party!

The covered veranda offers almost as much space again. Don't ask a few friends over, ask them all - there'll still be room to spare.

Why buy the Finnforest Pori Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 5.63m
External: 5.90m

Depth:
Internal: 3.63m
External: 5.39m

Ridge Height
External: 3.13m

Area:
Internal: 20.48m²
External: 31.82m²

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Constructing the Pori Log Cabin

Gorgeous, lazy summer evenings may be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it goes together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction skills are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

You might present this document to a carpenter then relax until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Care given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every piece set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every piece close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to set pieces too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Take the frame apart again and squeeze PVA glue into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Press the sides together tightly. Ensure that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess glue from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to prevent glue smearing onto the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, secure all corners with the screws provided.

Persist with laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards sequentially starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the ending shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Set the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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