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Finnlife Puro Log Cabin

The Finnlife Puro Log Cabin, newly released in 2007, conforms to a traditional scandinavian design. As with many of the Finnlife log cabins the logs are 28mm in thickness. Whatever corner of your garden you intend to place the cabin in is simply perfect. The roof of the log cabin and the floor are manufactured of oriented strand board and the roof covering is shingle tile. These boards are also 28mm thick.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Puro 2 side opening windows
Puro with underfloor heating 2 side opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Puro 0cm 0cm
Puro with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm
Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Puro Styrene
Puro with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Solid Sheet Material

Roof Material Solid Sheet Material

Cladding Width
Puro 2.8cm
Puro with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Instructions for building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Lovely, slow summer afternoons may be enticing, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to work out how it is put together, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry knowledge are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

You may present this text to a handyman then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finn Life Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a full set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Begin with the half-height wall boards. They form the first and lowest level. Put them over the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finn Life Cabin comes with internal walls, also lay the half-height wall boards that make up the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance.

Pay peculiar attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Put the first level of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints slot together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Put them in the appropriate position.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the proper gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Put ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have placed the ending ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

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