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Finnlife Reikko Log Cabin

The FinnForest Riekko Log Cabin

The Finnlife Riekko Log Cabin is an attractive log cabin offering a good-sized space inside and the scope to create something very special for yourself and your garden.

Like all log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.

Why buy the FinnForest Reikko Log Cabin?

Well illustrated, step-by-step plans are supplied with your log cabin making assembly more simple and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood is packed in protecting sheeting and comes packed in the right order for assembly

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

DIMENSIONS

Height:9'5" (2.9m)
Width:9'7" (2.96m)
Depth:14'11" (4.34m)

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How to build your very own Finnlife Riekko Log Cabin

Gorgeous, lazy summer evenings may be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It’s possible to present this text to a professional builder then sit back until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finn Life Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the initial step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is critical. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to build you should check that you have a full set of pieces. Check off every piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place every piece close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to lay pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the first and lowest level. Lay them across the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finn Life Cabin also has internal walls, also lay the half-height wall boards that make up the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help.

Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Lay the first level of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints slot together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Lay them in the right position.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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