Compare Prices for the Finnlife Seita

Finnlife Seita Log Cabin

The Finnlife Seita Log Cabin comes with a veranda providing a charming air to this log cabin and has been designed to utilise the most space.

With its half glazed door and opening window this charming log cabin is a great place to while away the hours. The walls are made using tongue and groove 28mm timber with the corners finished in an interlocking design for further strength.

* Roof with shingles for long-lasting protection from the elements
* Half glazed doors
* Opening window
* Veranda with handrail
* Tongue and groove timber
* 28mm thick walls
* Interlocking corners for a sturdy construction

As with Finnlife Log Cabins, the Seita can come with underfloor heating.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Seita 1 front opening window
Seita with underfloor heating 1 front opening window

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Seita 0cm 0cm
Seita with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine
Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Seita Styrene
Seita with underfloor heating Glass

Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Seita 2.8cm
Seita with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Going about building a Finnlife Log Cabin

Lovely, lounging summer afternoons might be coming, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you will enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

You might show this text to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your completed Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever completes the work, the first step is to understand fully these instructions. The trick is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Check off every component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every component close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to put components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s recommended running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray cutdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by puting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards properly. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have laid the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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