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Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

The Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin is the multi-use hall that never closes.

The Souja log cabin is from only the finest quality softwood from highly sustainable Scandinavian sustainable forests. It features wall logs in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints which give a weatherproof building.

Why buy the Finnforest Suoja Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height:
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

See your preffered stockists for extras such as underfloor heating.

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Build your Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

Fantastic, slow summer days might be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

It’s possible to show this document to a handyman then relax until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will affect the end outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to erect you should check that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each part near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to lay parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the primary and lowest level. Lay them across the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finn Life Log Cabin features internal walls, also lay the half-height wall boards that form the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance.

Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Lay the first set of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints slot together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Lay them in the required position.

Persist with laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of slots for the roof beams. As each slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fasten by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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