Compare Prices for the Finnlife Susi

Finnlife Susi Log Cabin

Watch as the Finnforest Susi Log Cabin becomes the perfect outdoor games room.

The double doors with full glazing and single opening window ensure both easy access to the log cabin and a light and airy environment. The Finnlife Susi's strength is ensured by 44mm thick cladding and interlocking corners. The generous area makes it an ideal all-purpose building including outdoor games room or garden office.

# Interlocking construction
# Eye-catching shingle roof
# 1 opening window
# Glazed double door
# 44mm cladding

See individual retailers for such extras as underfloor heating

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Finnforest Susi 1 opening windows
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 1 opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Finnforest Susi 0cm 0cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material

Finnforest Susi Styrene
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Tongue & Groove

Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Finnforest Susi 4.4cm
Finnforest Susi with underfloor heating 4.4cm

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Attempting to construct a Finnlife Log Cabin

Sumptuous, lazy summer afternoons might be calling, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this text to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to get to know these instructions. The knack is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should ensure that you have a full set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Start with the half-height wall boards. They form the primary and lowest level. Set them over the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finnlife Log Cabin comes with internal walls, also set the half-height wall boards that make up the lowest layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for guidance.

Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Set the first layer of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints gap together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Set them in the correct position.

Continue laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The last few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards sequentially starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends indicates a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models