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Finnlife Talo Log Cabin

The Finnforest Talo Log Cabin is dual-purpose; it offers both a convenient storeroom and also has a decent sized space in the main room. The storeroom is partitioned off the main room and can be entered through its own external door, no only allowing a room for storage of equipment and garden furniture but perhaps another quiet room.

Like all Finnlife log cabins in the Finnforest range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife live in harmony.
Why Buy FinnForest?

Assembly of the Finnlife Talo Log Cabin is made easy with the clearly illustrated and clear to follow step by step plans. Fully glazed windows and exterior panels make life easier for you.

FEATURES:

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Separate side room

DIMENSIONS:

Internal: 4.47m x 3.51m (14ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.76m x 3.80m (15ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Internal Area: 15.69m² (169 ft²)
External Area: 18.09m² (195 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.90m (9'6")

Finnlife Seita Log Cabin - A building How To

The lazy summer days may be enticing, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it goes together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist knowledge are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to show this text to a professional builder then relax until he presents you with the keys to your completed Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whoever does the job, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to build you should make sure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to place pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Note again that if your Finn Life Log Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Place the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches determines where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners free. If needed, make adjustments to the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by cross-examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can drive screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that contains the door will consist of two distinct wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each set down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the pre-requisite assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not been supplied with an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Place angled gable boards sequentially starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of gaps for the roof beams. As each gap appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fix. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fix by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Adjust till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the ending shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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