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Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

The Finnlife Teeri log cabin is a part of the Finnforest Finn Life range.

At any moment you could be either outside enjoying the sunshine, or in your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin playing games and enjoying a refreshing drink. Occasionaly you want time for yourself in the Teeri's secluded rear room; rather you want to be centre stage in the L-shaped main room. During the week it's back to business - your able to use the Teeri for hosting events too! Never a dull moment.

Finnforest log cabin components are precision-cut from top quality Scandinavian softwood for an immaculate fit. The timber comes from well-managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist. Building your Finnlife Teeri log cabin using the excellent plans supplied is simple and straightforward. The result is a professional-looking job that you'll be happy to call your own.

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build your Finnlife Teeri Log Cabin

Those lounging summer afternoons might be enticing, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is put together, and you’ll savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t have to do it without any help!

You may present this document to a carpenter then relax until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be methodical and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a complete set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Put out the floor beams at orderly intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is built you can then go back and trim away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane visible. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Put one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Install door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s simple to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Move till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Put the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the middle of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models