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Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

The Teos log cabin by Finnforest is part of the Finnlife range of quality garden buildings.

The clean, light, spacious and Finnlife Teos Log Cabin allows the occupant a complete 180 degree view of his or her garden with surrounding windows on every side.

For added flexibility, the large opening window can be sited to either the left or right side wall.

Dimensions

External Width 4.204m

Depth 2.704m

Ridge Height 3.580m

Area 12.39m2

"External" refers to the maximum external dimension. For log cabins with terraces, this has been included in that dimension.

Perspex safety glazing.

Please note; the windows on either side of the bay are fixed (non opening).

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - A Construction How To

Lovely, long summer afternoons might be enticing, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry skills are required. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

It’s possible to present this text to a professional builder then sit back until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kemi, Finn Life Kesa, Finn Life Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions mayalter slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finnlife Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to erect you should ensure that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each piece near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to put pieces too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Lay out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams meet with interior or exterior walls ensure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam ensuring that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is completed you can then go back and cut off away any excess polythene/DPC membrane showing. Make Sure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equal cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Lay one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is in direct contact with the underlying foundations.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the appropriate gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the relevant walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open properly.

Lay ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have put the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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