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Finnlife Valo Log Cabin

Whether you want to use your Finnlife Valo Log Cabin as a guest room, hobby hideaway, or personal library you'll find the Valo is more than up to the task. Once the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finnlife Valo is about going back to basics: you, nature and the things you care for most.

Situate your Valo south-facing and the sun never seems to set. A wonderfully welcoming log cabin like this catches the sun at almost every angle. From early in the morning to late in the day, sunlight will stream through those massive side windows; In the middle of the day, you'll get warm lovely sunshine right through the doors.If it gets too hot, you can always swing open the doors and windows. Too cold, simply shut them tight to keep the warmth inside. Even on a dull or rainy day, the Valo's fabulous 90-degree views will lure you into the garden.

This log cabin's components are precision-cut from quality Scandanavian softwood for a perfect fit, first time and every time. The timber comes from well managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist - and where the rate of tree planting exceeds the rate of felling.

Cabin Measurements

The Valo comes with these features as standard:

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build your very own Finnlife Log Cabin

Wonderful lounging summer days might be coming, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it is constructed, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction abilities are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t need to do it yourself!

It is possible to present this text to a carpenter then take it easy until he presents you with the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the first step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kemi, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions maydiffer slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you start to erect you should check that you have a full set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the built frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before continuing.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray cutdust. Dust-free joints provide a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now fix the position of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in slightly so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase in steps to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence starting with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The angled roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the angled ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends shows a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to secure. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fix by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then secure by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the cabin by putting a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have put the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to secure.

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